Guatemala

And Gutemala City it is, one of the most dangerous places on this part of the world. But all that of course is far away from the very touristic Antigua, the old part of the city where the most you have to worry about is ever present and very persistent street hawkers. Still recovering from my suspected dengue encounter, I just spent 3 days lazying around this charming place, enjoying the good coffee or reading my book in the Zocalo or doing the tourist sightseeing round the hundred and one chrurches and plasas present in Antigua. On a second visit we trekked up Volcan Pacaya, a bizarre experience given the fact that the last part of the trek was basically over blazing lava!!

Rio Dulce was again chillout time. Excellent weather and just a couple more guests at the hostal meant peace of mind. Swimming, reading and eating for a couple of days. This is where i got to know about a place called Semuc Champey. Staying at El Portal, overlooking the river, we had rain the first day so i decided to stay on the hammock and plan my visit, borrowing lonely planets and trying to make it on time to meet Alvin in Mexico.

Decision which paid off cause the next day was a cloudless day, perfect weather. We headed to the national park of Semuc Champey. An hour walk and we were on the mirador,overlooking pools of turquoise blue waters forming a limestone roof over the magnificent river passing underneath. The beauty of this special place takes a while to sink in . It didn t take that long though to walk down and dive in the clear turquoise water and absorb the energy that is said to exist in this place.

Lake Atitlan, an absolutely gorgeous lake surrounded by volcanos and small villages was my base for a couple of days where all we did was gaze at the beauty of the lake and seeing it change shapes and then fade out. San Pedro the village we stayed at can be easily described as an in your face hippie hot spot, and can be quite intense at times with European ppl trying too hard to fit in. The colourful native market of Chichicastenango was a pleasant Sunday trip from San Pedro, where Mayan natives try and sell hand made textiles, masks, wooden items, hamocks, hats and a hundred other similar items basically at any price you are willing to pay.

Tikal, the world famous Mayan ruins of Tikal was the reason for my second entry into Guatemala back from Mexico through Belize, along with a hundred and one scams on border controls from officers and money exchange ppl alike, was worth every hassle we had getting there.

Five in the morning and the jungle starts to wake up with the loud scary noises from Howler monkeys who make sure everyone around knows they are awake. This obviously wakes up neighbours amongst which are the colourful Tukans who fly around irritated trying to get far from the loud screams of the monkeys. All this surrounds the Mayan ruins of Tikal, scattered amongst pristine jungle, with all their magnificence unrevieled as the earth makes one more turn around the sun. This was sunrise over this special place called Tikal. We spent all day accompanied by a pleasant guide telling us the story of the Mayan rule over these temples.

A perfect ending to my journey through Guatemala, a truly unique country. And next... Mexico

Colombia a perfect farewell to my beloved South America

A land of unparalleled natural beauty and riches. The land of Gabriel Garcia Marques, Juanes and Shakira. The Carribean and Pacific, Guerilla and Paramilitary, Coffee and Cocaine, Cumbia and Salsa. The land of Pablo Escobar and of course the cocaine capital of the world.

No wonder that with all this mixed with it`s history of drugs, corruption and violence, a unique mystery and charm is carried by Colombia and it`s people, begging to be discovered.

My journey towards Colombia started from Quito in Equador, which is where the last blog ended dated end of August. No excuse this time for my slack. So back in Quito to meet some friends back from Galapagos. I arrived early morning, picked up a name of a hostel from the planet as usual and got on a cab with the most arrogant cab driver in the world who argued over leaving me at the crossroads near the address ofthe hostal in the dodgiest area of Quito. Threathing I wouldn`t pay, the dumbass reluctantly drove me to the deserted area in front of the hostal. A couple of hours into my sleep, I was rudely woken up by the morning manager trying to get another guest in the private room I paid for. Half asleep I agreed to settle it when I wake up and fell back to sleep. The new guest turned out to be a bloody faggot thief who got away with my favourite hat I got from Bolivia along with some clothes. Apart from this episode, the hostel in the morning looked as dodge as, inhabited mostly by faggots, making me an obvious target. Day after I was out of there, moved to another hostal and all was good again.

In Quito as well I met up with Julian again after a long time separated by more than the physical distance from Galapagos to the mainland. And it was great to catch up and plan in our own way some more travelling together hopefully all the way up to Cuba, on and off...hehehe

From Quito heading north after the crossing of yet another border was Pasto and Popayan, two towns I chose to break the long bus ride to Cali, the salsa capital of Colombia. Hostal Iguana, a party hostal situated in the Drag part of town was where I met Julian again, and party we did. In between a salsa festival, a couple of heavy nights and drinking at Iguana on nights off, I was glad to be on the road again after a week had gone by.

The coffee region surrounding Manizalez on the way to Medellin was an unexpected sweet surprise. The city itself is quite unremarkable, except the main square housing a magnificent cathedral, yet the surrounding Zona Caffeteria is defintely worth the stay.

Hacienda Guayabal, a coffee farm situated in a pictuesque valley in Chinchina made for a pleasant afternoon getting to know more about the world`s most famous drink. And what better way to end the day than sipping a freshly baked and ground coffee with the lovely land lady.

Medellin,where guerrila and paramilitary activity reached it`s heights, home to fake tits and the gorgeous girls who carry them around, home to the infamous Pablo Escobar and some of the world`s best cocaine, as I was told!! meant party again.

Next on the way was the Carribean coast of Colombia. Cartagena was the first town I landed, impressive not for the carribean but as an elegant port town with it`s colonial beaty, shady squares and colourful cobbled streets.

The sad part to this charming place is the innumerable prostitutes roaming around. On my last night, after waking up Julian who was ablivious to my arrival, I dragged him out for a couple of beers in the centre. The bar we ended up in was one of the many populated by young willing girls surrounded by pervert old men where the attraction is measured by dollars. Truly disgusting.

And finally for some sea and sand action on the carribean coast. Taganga, a fishing village situated next to Santa Martha became my base through Bezzina, a fellow Maltese who has been living here for almost 3 years. Great guy..Thanks angain Marco.His cabaña on top of the hill overlooking the beach, the hospitality of Andres and all at Octopus diving and the people of the village themselves made for a perfect chillout place where i stayed for a couple of days.

Diving here was just ok, big expectations for my first Carribean dives but at least got to dive with no wetsuit and wieghts.

Taganga is the gateway to the national park of Tyrona. A hidden paradise of warm Carribean waters, sun sand and palms made for a couple of nights sleeping in hammocks and doing nothing at all. A true highlight of Colombia. Excellent. Snorkelling in La Piscina was great. Lobsters, rays, colourful fish and lovely coral, all in warm clear water made for some beautiful snorkelling.

Off to do some more diving I headed to the islands of San Andres and Providencia. After about 46 luggage and body checks, and a hassle with my flight ticket which ended up in me having to buy a return flight, I was on the plane to San Andres.

Some good diving in San Andres, Providencia the small island, less inhabited meant 3 days in bed for me sweating my fever prob effects of dengue. However Providencia is your typical Carribean island, targeting tourists with cash, still some excellent beaches.

I must say I was gad to move on and get back to being a mochillero on my way to Guatemala.

South America was very good to me and in a way changed a part of me forever. Bolivia with it`s breathtaking landscapes and indigenous people, the fervour of Brasil, Tango, steak and wine in Buenos Aires, the Inca of Peru and how can I forget Galapagos. It was a unique travel through this special part of the world and through the lives of hundreds of people, all with their own story to tell.

¡ Hasta luego mi amor !